Seriously Tho is right, you need to do some reading. A lot of things have changed since the '70s!
Spoke tension is dependent on the rim and hub. Stans NoTubes rims do not have eyelets, so they can't use as high a tension as rims that do have eyelets. The rim manufactuer should have their max tension listed on their website. And if you're building a wheels this tool
is a very worth while investment, so you KNOW you have the right tension.
Tuning by ear will get you even tension on all the spokes, but you don't know what that tension actually is.
Take a look at this tech sheet (PDF)
for DT Swiss MTB rims, their max spoke tension can vary from 1000N to 1200N, a 20% swing.
jwh321 wrote:One other wheel building tip that I will share -- for those of us who are a bit anal, I ran a spoke nipple onto a spoke to lock it into place then I chuck that piece into an electric drill. I use it to "polish" the inside of each spoke hole to ensure that each nipple moves smoothly as it is tightened. I don't know if it has much impact, but I have some road wheels that I built in the mid-seventies that are still true and round so I figure, it can't hurt. I also slightly chamfer each spoke hole in the hun to ensure that the bends in the spoke have no sharp corners which could lead to fatigue in that area.
Removing material around the spoke holes in either the rim or hub is a BAD idea. Use linseed oil around the nipple head so it moves freely when building the wheels, then as the oil dries it almost turns into a glue. Use it on the spoke threads as well, for the same reasons. This was a trick I got, passed down by the best local wheel builder in town.
www.SouthernWheelworks.com - Custom wheels designed and built just for you, by hand.