[maddslacker offline]

That's (one of the reasons) why I like GripShift (RIP!!!!) - it lets you trim the FD.

Long live gripshift!!!!!!!!! Bring it back SRAM!!!

And trigger shifters don't allow this?

[dgaddis offline]

That's (one of the reasons) why I like GripShift (RIP!!!!) - it lets you trim the FD.

Long live gripshift!!!!!!!!! Bring it back SRAM!!!

And trigger shifters don't allow this?

Not the ones I've used. With a gripshift front shifter (for a 3x system) instead of there being 3 indexed points (one for each chainring) there's something like 9 (not sure of the exact #, been a while since I used it). So when you're in the middle ring you can use 3 of those positions to mico adjust the FD depending on which part of the cassette you're using. It also means the system doesn't need a 100% perfect set up/tune. It works kinda like a friction shifter with 'soft' indexes if you will. I know of a few folks using an old 9spd gripshifter on a new 2x10 systems even.

Are there any triggers that will let you micro adjust like that?

[element22]

twist shifters are still around but in 9spd.. Not 10...

[maddslacker offline]

My front trigger shifter has a barrel adjuster for fine tuning, just like the rear.

[dgaddis offline]

My front trigger shifter has a barrel adjuster for fine tuning, just like the rear.

Right, but you can't easily adjust the barrel adjuster on the fly, without stopping. You gotta loosen the lock nut, adjust the tension where you want, then tighten the lock nut back up. Plus, messing with the barrel adjuster may effect shifting one direction or the other.

But with gripshift you've got several 'positions' for each chainring, and you select those positions with the shifter, not the barrel adjuster. So you can do it on the fly, even when out of the saddle and hammering, and still be able to shift to the next ring without any issues.

[jeff]

I don't know if this is legit or not but I can "nudge" the FD on my trigger shifter by pushing forward a bit without "clicking." This is esp. true on my road bike.

[maddslacker offline]

That works on mine too, for the front, not so much on the rear.

[SpyderRider offline]

I don't know if this is legit or not but I can "nudge" the FD on my trigger shifter by pushing forward a bit without "clicking." This is esp. true on my road bike.

yeah ive done that a few times on mine

[dozzerboy offline]

My front trigger shifter has a barrel adjuster for fine tuning, just like the rear.

Right, but you can't easily adjust the barrel adjuster on the fly, without stopping. You gotta loosen the lock nut, adjust the tension where you want, then tighten the lock nut back up. Plus, messing with the barrel adjuster may effect shifting one direction or the other.

But with gripshift you've got several 'positions' for each chainring, and you select those positions with the shifter, not the barrel adjuster. So you can do it on the fly, even when out of the saddle and hammering, and still be able to shift to the next ring without any issues.

I can... And I have never seen a "lock ring" on shifters. The barrel adjuster has "clicks."

[maddslacker offline]

Yeah, my barrel adjusters don't have lockrings either, but the have distinctive clicks at about 1/4 turn.

[Martino0626 offline]

Talking about Shifting stuff...The bikes design has to play a role. I had a Haro Xeon with this really complicated rear suspension set up and it constantly had shifting issues especially the FD but I switched to a Titus FSR design and I havent had the shifting tuned in over 6 months and its still as crisp and dialed-in as one off the show room floor.

[kcrushz online]

A lot of it has to do with the chainline....Some are better than others. With most FD's though it is a matter of proper set up and know which gear combinations you can use and which you cannot (not suppose to). In a 3 ring set up it is important to set the limit screws correctly... The middle ring is adjusted solely on cable tension.

The best method to adjust the FD is to have the lower limit set properly so that when you drop into that ring it drops quickly and has about 0.5-1mm spacing from the chain and the cage of the FD (when in the biggest rear cog). Do this adjustment with the cable off.. Then set the upper ring the same way with the limit screw.....
Before attaching the cable, turn in the tension adjuster on the shifting pod all the way in and then 2 1.5 turns out. Then attach the cable but don't pull it tight when tightening it down.

At this point you can start adjusting tension...Usually do it with a quarter turn on the adjuster at a time in or out depending where it is rubbing.....have the bike in the air and crank while shifting into the middle ring...If it takes to long or not shifting turn out the tensioner quarter turn at a time...If it goes into the middle but then the inner cage is rubbing then there is too much tension (turn the adjuster in)...

This should get you going well.

With a 2X system its a matter of just setting the limits properly.

Thanks for the detailed explanation.

I had pretty much done all these from instructions culled from the videos I found online.
After various attempts, I found that the position of the FD on the seat tube determined the success of the tuning. Anyone has any suggestions in determining the precise placement? i.e. in moving the FD up & down the tube, how do you determined the best position? Placed too low & you risk hitting the big ring; too high & you can't shift higher gears etc.
Thanks in advance. Happy riding.

[element22]

Check Sram service page and look for the document...Frame Fit specifications it has the exact placement there for you...Or remember that you need a gap of 2-3mm from the top edge of the chainring to the bottom edge of the FD`s outside plate.

[mtbgreg1 offline]

I don't know if this is legit or not but I can "nudge" the FD on my trigger shifter by pushing forward a bit without "clicking." This is esp. true on my road bike.

Yeah me too. A little push and I can usually get the chain to go if its not cooperating.

[Martino0626 offline]

Okay, I got the Sram XO 2x10 and the upgrade cut any entire pound off my bike and I have ridden one trail on it for a brief moment and it wasnt that big change...the shifting is crisp and FD is perfect no rub and NO WAITING for the shift to happen which is the biggest selling point. I love it...I envision every MTB coming off the showroom floor with 2x10 drivetrains. The only disadvantage I can see is since the big ring on 2x10 is smaller than the typical 3 ring setup on long flat runs you wont get the same top speed. I will sacrifice a little top speed for the 10spd setup